Big Bend

Many people have not traveled as far south to the Mexico/US border in Big Bend National Park as we have. I now know why. It is literally the middle of nowhere. After much discussion with Adam, we define “nowhere” to be on the edge of somewhere, “somewhere” being where there are lights reflecting in the night's sky. “Nowhere” is therefore where it has the darkest night's sky; the least amount of light pollution and Big Bend is that place. It is the darkest place in the lower 48 states. The sky was absolutely amazing and not a cloud out there. The days, however, were hot and windy. Driving for hours through the desert to reach Big Bend, we finally arrived at Rio Grand Village where we set up camp. With advisories telling us to come with a full tank of gas and all supplies we didn't expect much and it was more civilized than they let on. The campground offered a store, gas, and our full-hookups.

After setting up we explored the south eastern side of the park and Boquilles Canyon overlook. This canyon offers high walls and a beautiful view of the Rio Grande and what looks like another trailer park across the river, but is actually the small town of Boquilles, Mexico. The people from the town risk deportation and huge fines by crossing the river to leave trinkets and notes to Americans pleading for financial support by purchasing their wares. They simply leave a cup with a slit for payment. I saw many horse trails and droppings, and deduced that they had probably ridden their mules over to this side of the border to leave their goods since there were no horses on our side. From the high vantage point I saw a farm with cattle and donkeys grazing below. What a beautiful sight and reminiscent of an old world country. It was just a poor town with few resources. If Americans cross the river there is threat of a $5000 fine. This area used to be a soft border until 2002 when the rules changed and border crossing was limited to only a few border towns. I found it amazing the border was open that long.



The next day we explored the other side of the park. Desperate for a cell signal we drove slowly trying to find one and came across it at a major intersection. They had a post office and a cell signal! My new definition of civilization. Once that task was complete we took the drive up the Chios mountains to the mountain lodge and ate outside for lunch. Clean air, good food, and great scenery. What more do you need? We read that was a nice spot to watch the desert sun set, but it was only 5pm so we still had a few more hours of sunlight. We had been told not to miss the Saint Elena canyon on the western side of the park so that's where we headed next.



Similar to the other canyon we visited it was carved by the Rio Grande river and featured walls over 1500 feet tall. I thought that the canyon walls bordered the entire length of the park and we were safely insulated from the dangerous drug traffickers traveling from Mexico to the US. Ignorance is bliss. While we were enjoying the beautiful scenery I read in the National Park paper that drug traffic routinely crosses through the park and we were warned not to stop for people looking for water but instead call 911. That warning was quite contradictory to the way people generally act toward one another in a national park. No thirsty travelers in sight, we ventured to the river banks to take in the grandeur. I ran into an elderly, Ontario couple who hiked the canyon trail and said it was “well organized.” I thought that was a strange description of a trail when I was looking to know whether it was easy or difficult. I encountered this same couple when entering the park the day before and they explained to the park ranger that they wanted the campground sans generators because they had converted their Honda Oddessy into their tent. I give them a lot of credit for doing so. That's a long trip to be confined into that tiny space together. And I thought our living space was small. However, I couldn't help feeling snubbed by their insistence they are self sufficient and require no electricity. I'm as conscientious as the next person, but this mode of transportation is our way of life and they turned their noses up at it. I know it's not for everyone, but I find it a sensitive subject.

We finished our drive by viewing a couple of Javilina (aka. rodents of unusual size). They do exist! (The Princess Bride reference for those of you who didn't get it.) They resemble pigs, but are actually giant rodents. Imagine a mouse blown up 100 times. They didn't look dangerous. I spotted one coyote and a couple small jack rabbits. Their size was disappointing. In the morning we set out to drive out of the park only to overheat and have our low water buzzer alarmed inside the coach. I spent two trips walking to the gas station among the civilized major intersection for coolant and met a nice ranger who helped me check the levels. It was dry. Oops. His comment, “It could be worse. You could be stuck in the city.” True, but not really helpful in mechanical situations unless you are a mechanic. Guess he likes his job definitely not in a city. Damage report: 2 dead truck batteries (FL), 1 car battery leaking battery acid, 1 bad lube pump monitor connected to tow vehicle (LA), low truck coolant (TX), dead car battery. And the fun continues...

Dust Bowl

After a three day stay in Shreveport, LA where we had to wait for a car part and busied ourselves with hair cuts and playing in a surprisingly nice casino, we have succeeded in reaching another state. Welcome to the Lone Star State of Texas. I've never seen more broken down, ghostly gas stations in the entire country as I have here. Ironic because isn't this where a lot of the oil comes from? We drove today through high winds and bright sun. It was exhausting and kicked up all kinds of allergies, not to mention caused Sequoia to go grey instead of black. I didn't think this was one of the states in the dust bowl, but I think I was wrong! We had intended to come west by way of I-10 so we could stop and see the Alamo, but since we were already north at I-20 and lost a few days we decided to skip it. We'll just have to hit that on the next loop around going back east.

We stopped and had lunch in Midland, TX, the home of George and Laura Bush. I'm thinking we didn't see their part of town, though it was much bigger than I expected. We spent last night near Abeline and I thought that was the only big town west of Dallas. Big is a relative term. I'm now revising my thoughts that is there is a major grocery store in the town then it's big. If the grocery store, post office and gas station are one store, then its small, but if it has none of those things, then it's not really a town but someone's farm. Tonight we are in Ft. Stockton, TX and I think there is a grocery separate from the post office. I know there is a historic fort here that we hope to see tomorrow.

Leaving the east coast has been more stressful than planned. We are a great case study for the more you drive, the more things break. We are ready to enjoy the west without anything else breaking. I do have a dead car towing behind us, but that's not really a new problem and has a remedy I can fix myself. But these little pit stops for service are really stressing me out more than usual. Don't know why exactly. All I can think is we had a bit of a reprieve for a few months while we were moving only two hours at a time in Florida and things didn't seem to be breaking. Now it feels like they are happening all at once. Today I had to stop at a truck stop and ask them to check my truck oil because it looked like it was splashing onto our car. We think this started happening because of elevation gain because he said our oil is over full and we never even filled it. For all of you who are envious of our mid-life expedition, hate to say it, but this part of the trip is not fun. Of course it can't be all roses all the time.

Hoping for a little R&R in the wilderness. It's nearly 100 degrees down here and I'm ready to see some Jackalopes (what I call the really large jack rabbits...it's a long story). Just got to avoid the poisonous snakes. Big Bend National Park here we come! It better be worth it.
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People we have met

We have met some characters in the recent travels through rural Louisiana...




The National Park ranger who relocated to this area because her home was destroyed in the hurricane Katrina – her reaction...”it's just stuff. My kids and I are safe that's what matters.”



The pipeline workers in town just to work on drilling through shale and building the natural gas pipeline, transplants mainly from Texas on contract jobs, living in the RV parks along the way, working six days a week 5am – 5pm, traveling with their families, full-size barbeques and child swings just to feel like they are at home. Family members left in camp waiting for their breadwinners to return home from the day spend the time scrapbooking and doing laundry for the family.



The people who drive a 1953 motorhome bus that they have lived in for 20 years. Their jobs are gatekeepers charged with protecting the road down to the oil well. Moving from job to job, they live in remote areas enjoying their solitude and mobile way of life. Their bus is about to fall apart and they are considering purchasing a new one. Instead of being excited for modernity, they mourn the potential passing of their beloved home.



The upbeat nurse who told us her grandmother grew up in Cane River where plantations were abundant, share cropping a way of life and many freed slaves owned farms. Which way of life did she take part?



The drummer in a touring Christian rock band who doesn't feel totally comfortable professing his faith, maybe because he is a non-believer? Living on a tour bus a third of the year with 11 other people, resting in a casino hotel. Poker could be his heaven.



And then there were the stray animals along the roads; some dead, some alive. Dogs running in packs look dirty yet well fed. Mama dogs who obviously just birthed puppies scrounge the campground for scraps. Stray cats climb trees hoping to catch a bird. Campground owners take in four stray dogs. Guess they got tired of seeing the dogs along the roadside too.



Life is interesting in all corners of the country.

Steph & Sequoia at Oakland plantation in Natichotes, LA near Shreveport